A 2022 study found PFAS in more than 40% of cookware products tested, including items explicitly marketed as "PFOA-free." If you've noticed the "PFOA-free" label and assumed that means safe, you're not alone. That label has created confusion at exactly the moment we need clarity.
Here's what you need to know: PFOA-free doesn't mean PFAS-free. PFOA was one chemical in a much larger family of forever chemicals called PFAS. When the EPA phased out PFOA in 2013, manufacturers didn't abandon nonstick coatings. They switched to other PFAS compounds — often without disclosing the swap. The marketing got cleaner while the chemistry barely changed.
What is PFAS? The basics
PFAS stands for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances. It's a family of thousands of human-made chemicals used in dozens of consumer products for one key property: they resist heat, water, and grease. Scientists have detected PFAS in drinking water supplies across the US, in rainwater, in soil, and in human blood across multiple countries.1
The problem with nonstick cookware
What PTFE actually is
Teflon is a brand name. The chemical is PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene). It's a plastic-like polymer bonded to the pan's aluminum or steel base. PTFE itself is considered stable at normal cooking temperatures. The issue is what happens at high heat, and what's used to manufacture or apply the coating.
PFOA: the original problem
PFOA (perfluorooctanoic acid) was the processing chemical used to manufacture PTFE for decades. In 2013, the EPA finalized a phase-out of PFOA from new manufacturing. The concern was legitimate: PFOA had been detected in the blood of workers and residents near manufacturing plants.2
PFOA-free is not PFAS-free
"PFOA-free" means one specific chemical was removed from the manufacturing process. It does not mean PFAS-free. Modern cookware often uses PFAS substitutes — compounds like GenX — that have barely been studied. When you buy "PFOA-free" nonstick cookware, you may be buying a pan coated with a different PFAS.
The 5 main cookware materials compared
Stainless steel (safest for most)
Stainless steel is an alloy of iron, chromium, and nickel. It doesn't require any coating. Grade 304 (18/8) and Grade 316 contain nickel — for people with nickel sensitivity, nickel can leach into acidic foods like tomato sauce and vinegar at small concentrations.3
Best for: sautéing vegetables, searing meat, boiling, making sauces.
Downsides: requires technique; heavier than nonstick.
Cast iron (no chemicals, but heavy)
Cast iron is nearly pure iron. When properly seasoned, it develops a naturally nonstick patina. Iron leaches into food — generally considered benign or beneficial (iron fortification is a common public health strategy).4 For people with hemochromatosis, regular use is worth discussing with a doctor.
Best for: high-heat searing, oven cooking, braising.
Downsides: weight; maintenance; reacts with acidic foods.
Enameled cast iron (iron without the maintenance)
Cast iron coated with a glass-like enamel glaze. The enamel eliminates iron leaching and removes the need for seasoning. [Inference: vintage enameled cookware may contain lead or cadmium in the glaze; modern regulated cookware should meet food safety standards from established brands.]
Best for: braising, soups, stews, oven-to-table serving.
Downsides: expensive ($150–$300); enamel can chip; heavy.
Ceramic-coated (variable quality)
Most "ceramic-coated" cookware is aluminum with a spray-applied ceramic coating 1–2 micrometers thick. The nonstick property fades after 6–12 months of regular use. Scratches expose the aluminum base — acidic foods can then leach aluminum. [Inference: whether dietary aluminum at typical food contact levels poses health risk remains debated in scientific literature.]
Best for: light everyday cooking if nonstick feel is a priority.
Downsides: durability varies; coating wears quickly.
Carbon steel (cast iron's lighter cousin)
Lighter than cast iron, heats faster, and works on all stovetop types. Like cast iron, it requires seasoning. Popular in professional kitchens for combining heat retention with lighter weight.
Best for: high-heat cooking, crepes, eggs, stovetop searing.
Downsides: requires seasoning; reacts with acidic foods.
What to actually look for when buying
- PFAS-free (not just PFOA-free): Ask the manufacturer explicitly: "Is your nonstick coating free of all PFAS compounds?"
- Lead and cadmium-free: Relevant for ceramic and enameled cookware
- Food contact certification: NSF, FDA clearance, or EU food contact material standards
Red flags in marketing: "Chemical-free," "healthy nonstick," "eco-friendly" — get specific about what's absent.
Your priority swap order
Tier 1 — Replace first: Any nonstick pan with visible scratches, peeling, or discoloration. Old nonstick cookware from before 2010. Daily-use pans that see high heat.
Tier 2 — Phase out gradually: Nonstick skillets in good condition — let them run out naturally, then replace with stainless or cast iron.
Tier 3 — No rush: Pots used primarily for boiling or simmering have lower migration risk. Upgrade last.
The bottom line
The goal isn't perfect cookware. It's reducing the highest-risk exposures first, then upgrading gradually. One quality stainless steel pan outlasts five cheap nonstick pans — and eliminates PFAS concerns entirely.